The Snow Roads
Great Scottish RoutesPerth – Granton on Spey – Findhorn
High Roads, Wildlife, and Whisky
Duration: 3 days, 2 nights
Central Highlands, The Cairngorm National Park to the Moray Coast
Route distance: 270 miles
There are some roads in Scotland (in fact there are a lot of them) where it just doesn’t matter that you are retracing your steps. The trip on the way back opens up completely different views and experiences that you wouldn’t notice on the way there. The Snow Roads are a great example of this.
So where are they and why are they called the Snow Roads? Officially it’s a 90-mile route over the high passes of the highlands and The Cairngorm National Park from Blairgowrie to Granton on Spey. The routes traverses the two highest main roads in the UK, The Cairnwell Pass (2199ft – 670m) and the Lecht. (2113ft – 644m) During the winter months, they are often closed by snow, hence the snow roads. We have extended the route a little (50 miles) with a starting point at Perth and going beyond Granton on Spey to Findhorn.
The Snow Roads – Perth to Braemar
So you’ve picked up your Wild Rovers Land Rover in Melrose. It’s just a short trip up the A7 to Edinburgh, over the River Forth on the new Queensferry Crossing Bridge and a 30-minute drive to Perth, our starting point for the snow roads.
Perth is a good place to get all your supplies and fuel up. You’ll still have more options at Blairgowrie and Braemar but you never know what can happen (in a good way) so it’s good to be prepared so you are free to take on any opportunities that may arise.
The A93 between Perth and Blairgowrie is a pleasant 20-minute drive through an arable landscape. You will pass Scone Palace a couple of miles outside Perth. Once the place for crowning Scottish kings the palace and gardens are open to the public. You can read more about Scone Palace here
A few miles further up the road is The Strawberry Shop which is always worth a stop to get great-tasting local produce and it’s not only strawberries they sell.
Another notable attraction is the Meikleour Beach Hedges which line the A93 just after you cross over the River Isla. Planted in 1745, apparently by clansmen who fought at the Battle of Culloden The hedge is noted in the Guinness World Records as the tallest and longest hedge on earth, reaching 30 metres (98 feet) in height and 530 metres (1,740 feet) in length.
The beech Hedges in summer and winter
Next up is the town of Blairgowrie and Rattray. If you haven’t done so this is the last place to pick up some supplies if you are camping. There is a large Tesco here as well as many local shops. There are also a number of hotels and restaurants if you fancy a bite to eat too. Blairgowrie is the southern gateway to the Snow Roads and from here the roads raises all the way through Glenshee to the top of the Cairnwell Pass.
The road winds its way north towards Glenshee. A few miles outside Blairgowrie you will come to The Bridge of Cally. If you are into angling you will find a great wee bookshop dedicated to fishing called River Thoughtful. The Bridge of Cally Hotel is also worth a stop if you are hungry serving an all-day menu.
As you go higher the road and further up the glen fields turn to pasture and heather. If you are a fan of Gin you can pop into the Persie micro Distillery and grab some local small-batch Gin or take a tour of the distillery. Further up the Glen keep your eyes open for Red Deer on either side of the road and if you would like to taste some venison (vegetarians look away now) then you can buy local meats at Glenkilrie Larder. If prefer a cup of coffee, a light bite and a little bit of gift shopping then the Wee House of Glenshee tearoom and gift shop is for you. 1/2 a mile up the road is the Clach Na Coileach (The Cockstane or Cock’s Stone) It’s a nice place to stop and stretch of the legs but the story about the stone is rather, em… dull compared to other stories from Scotland. However, you can read all about it here… if you want.
The road head on past the Spittal of Glenshee and pretty much turns into steep-sided moorland on both sides. There is a particularly wiggly section of the road here and if you are not careful you could get some air or your stomach in your mouth.
The Glenshee road (A93) before the final climb up to the Cairnwell (Mountain top left)
The last stretch of road up to the Cairnwell Pass has been upgraded and although steep is relatively straight. It bypasses the once notorious Devil’s Elbow s-bend (Image) Evidence of the old road and part of the Devil’s Elbow is still visible today. Once at the top, you are greeted by large car parks for the Glenshee Ski Centre and the fact that you are on the highest main road pass in the UK. A chair lift to take you to the top of the Cairnwell mountain is open sometimes. From the top, you get some great views. If closed you can have a coffee and light bite in the cafe.
Check out this great short feature by the BBC about the Devil’s Elbow. | Watch now
The run down to Braemar is generally smooth and quick, again surrounded by steep-sided mountains and moorland. There are potential camping spots along the back road into Braemar. You can access this by taking a left over the old bridge a couple of miles out from the village.
Braemar is essentially a tourist village with plenty of amenities, gift shops and dining hotels. If you take a left into the village there is a car park with public toilets. In the summer, watch out for the many bikers parked up enjoying their fish and chips from The Hungry Highlander (if it’s open).
The Braemar chocolate shop is worth a visit if you are looking for a luxury and tasty gift. The chocolates are amazing albeit quite expensive.
The Bothy cafe is great for a cup of coffee a bite with nice views over the river and waterfall to the rear.
Detour
The Linn of Dee
At Braemar take a left into the village and follow the road. You will end up following the River Dee west for about 6 miles till you reach the Linn of Dee Bridge. Cross over and drive into the car park. There are many walks here into the heart of the Cairngorm mountains via the Lairig Ghru or you can take a woodland walk back down to the river. The Linn of Dee is a natural river gorge with spectacular rock formations. Apparently a favourite spot of Queen Victoria. The Linn of Dee is situated on the Mar Lodge Estate and camping is allowed as long as you follow the Scottish outdoor access code. So feel free to park the Land Rover and spend the night in this beautiful spot. Beware the composting toilet though!!! You can continue on the road on the north side of the Dee to the Linn of Quoich, another stunning river gorge.
We would advise that you take the B976 over the high moors to Gairnsheil Lodge. This is a stunning road. However, you may feel like a trip into Ballater which is another 10 minutes drive along the A93. Here you will be able to pick up some supplies, fuel up or just do a bit of shopping.
The Snow Roads – Braemar to Granton on Spey
Leaving Braemar you then head along the wooded winding road along the banks of the River Dee in the direction of Ballater. After roughly 10 minutes you should be able to see the top of the tower and flag pole of Balmoral Castle. The castle is on the other side of the river and there is plenty of signposts to guide you if you fancy a visit. (You can find more information here on the Balmoral Castle website) If you are interested in whisky then a 2-minute drive along the south of the river will take you to the Royal Lochnager Distillery where you can do a tour and enjoy some whisky tasting.
We would advise that you take the B976 over the high moors to Gairnsheil Lodge. This is a stunning road. However you may feel like a trip into Ballater which is another 10 minutes drive along the A93. Here you will be able to pick up some supplies, fuel or just do a bit of shopping.
Detour
Burn O’Vat
The vat is a large pothole about 20 m wide and 15 m high that was formed by glacial meltwater and rocks about 12,000 years ago. You enter the Vat through a cave after a pleasant walk through some fine woodland. It’s genuinely quite spectacular once inside, with steep scoured out cliff and waterfalls. The vat is also part of the Muir of Dinnet National Nature Reserve and there are plenty of woodland walks throughout the area. Roughly a 10 minute drive from Ballater take the A93 towards Aberdeen. After about 5 miles you will see the sign post for the Muir of Dinnet and the B9119. The carpark and visitor centre is only a couple of miles up this road.
We would advise that you take the B976 over the high moors to Gairnsheil Lodge. This is a stunning road. However you may feel like a trip into Ballater which is another 10 minutes drive along the A93. Here you will be able to pick up some supplies, fuel or just do a bit of shopping.
You can re-trace your route back west along the A93 to the B976 or take the quicker route to Gairnshiel Lodge by turning a little earlier onto the A939.
Once you reach Gairnshiel Lodge you’ll now be directed over the new Gairnshiel bridge instead of the old humpback bridge which closed to traffic in February 2023 (check the video below). Heading north towards Tomintoul on the A939 about 0.5 miles after the bridge look out for the Ringing Stone on the left. It’s a large slab of rock that when hit with another stone makes a ringing sound.
The road climbs up onto the high moors and over to Strathdon with some cracking views over the Cairngorms National Park. Look out for Grouse on the moors here as they quite often sit close to the road. Once down in the glen take the left at the junction towards Tomintoul.
If you fancy a wee coffee stop then Goodbrands & Ross cafe and shop are only a mile up the road on the right. Once through Corgarff and Cockbridge, the road rises quickly and steeply towards the Lecht Ski Centre. Keep a look out for the white Corgraff castle on the left as you rise out of the glen. A little further up is a small carpark and a cracking viewpoint.
Viewpoint over Corgarff looking west towards the Cairngorm mountains.
This is one of Scotland’s most magnificent roads and as you climb up past the Lecht and down towards Grafton on Spey you will see why. Great views, moorlands, wildlife and winding steep roads. There are potential camping spots on the side of the road here so keep your eyes open. Once you reach the A95 take a left and head towards Grafton on Spey.
Granton on Spey was founded in 1765 as a planned settlement. The town now has a population of around 2,500. There are plenty of pubs and hotels to grab a bar lunch or a meal here or a number of local galleries and local shops if you want a little walk around.
The Snow Roads – Granton on Spey to Findhorn
We suggest getting back on the A95 and heading south towards Aviemore for around 7 miles. Take the right-hand junction for Forres on the B9007. This is the last high moorland road till you reach Findhorn where you can spend your second night. Although the B9007 isn’t as high as the previous roads you have been on it’s still a great road through stunning scenery. Keep a lookout for the ruins of Lochindorb Castle in the middle of the loch. This castle was once a lair of the infamous Wolf of Badenoch (1343 – 1405).
Once you descend off the moors you move through mixed woodland. Follow the B9007 in the direction of Forres. One noticeable stop-off is at the Logie Steading visitor centre where you can find shops and woodland walks along the Findhorn river to Randolph’s Leap (more info here)
The B9007 heading north towards the Moray coast above Lochindorb.
After Logie follow the A940 into Forres. Here you can get supplies for your nights camp at Findhorn. Forres has a large supermarket and you can get whatever you need there. You can also take part in a Whisky tour at the Benromach Distillery. Another local attraction is the huge Pictish Sueno’s Stone on the outskirts of town.
From the Sueno’s Stone follow the B9011 towards Kinloss and Findhorn. You will eventually pass the old RAF Kinloss base on your right and the estuary of the River Findhorn on your left. A little further on you pass the Findhorn Foundation where you can pay a visit. There is also a campsite here. Finally, drive right through the village to the beach and park up and take a walk onto the stunning beach. Look out for Dolphins as they are frequently spotted off the coast here. It is possible to park up and stay here for the night. You can get more info here. There are also a couple of bars and restaurants in Findhorn that are great for an evening meal and a drink. We can personally recommend both The Captain’s Table and The Crown & Anchor for food.
After Logie follow the A940 into Forres. Here you can get supplies for your nights camp at Findhorn. Forres has a large supermarket and you can get whatever you need there. You can also take part in a Whisky tour at the Benromach Distillery. Another local attraction is the huge Pictish Sueno’s Stone on the outskirts of town.
From the Sueno’s Stone follow the B9011 towards Kinloss and Findhorn. You will eventually pass the old RAF Kinloss base on your right and the estuary of the River Findhorn on your left. A little further on you pass the Findhorn Foundation where you can pay a visit. There is also a campsite here. Finally, drive right through the village to the beach and park up and take a walk onto the stunning beach. Look out for Dolphins as they are frequently spotted off the coast here. It is possible to park up and stay here for the night. You can get more info here. There are also a couple of bars and restaurants in Findhorn that are great for an evening meal and a drink. We can personally recommend both The Captain’s Table and The Crown & Anchor for food.
Findhorn Beach
Your destinationA spectacular stretch of uninterrupted white sands. It’s a great place for a gentle stroll or some serious birdwatching at the adjacent Nature Reserve. Check out the brightly coloured beach houses too.
The way back
As said at the start of this article the snow roads are one of the great routes in Scotland that looks different and as amazing on the way back. There are also many detours you can take and check out the places you missed out on the way up. However, Findhorn is a great place to start to explore Aberdeenshire or head out west. Luckily because you are in a Wild Rovers Land Rover you can go where ever you want in style and luxury.
The Snow Roads – Useful links
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